JWP1206 - Bonnet Strut Fitting Instructions



FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

The kit is designed to fit 90s & defenders, both 'right and' left' hand drive, versions.

The instructions are from an install on a 300 tdi 90 which was standard except, for the winch control block on the passenger wing. The fitting is a similar, process on all other variants.

Tools you will need, marker pen, tape measure, electric drill, 1 × 5мм - 5.5мm + 1 x 6mm HSS drill bit, 10mm 1 1mm 13mm spanners & sockets, ratchet - best 1/4 or 3/8 drive, pliers. Stanley knife.

On the 300 tdi shown here it still had the bonnet, matting. If you still wish to keep it remove it – pull it out from under the under bonnet lip on both edges so the top bonnet brackets can be mounted.

Trim the bonnet matting to suit and allow re-fitting with a sharp blade. After fitment and final checks

On a td5 the brackets should fit the factory slots in the under bonnet covering – some minor retrimming maybe required.


The next step is to take the 2 x bonnet brackets, identify which side they are for RH and LH, and add the ball end and the m8 washer, then slide into place through the middle hole and add and tighten the nyloc. Repeat for the opposite side.

You can fit the ball ends now, it is easier to do this first before mounting the plates.


Right Hand Side Wing Mount

Shown above are the 2 x bolts to be removed,, 1 x is captive the other is not. The kit includes longer, bolts (as you are adding 3mm with the new bracket). Swap the existing bolts for those in the kit slightly longer, the m6 x 35 are for the header tank and the, spacers. Add the 2 x ball ends and nylocs to the plates and tighten (no washers)


As above & as a guide, the "slots" should allow a 10mm back / forth movement, place a tape measure at the bulkhead rear wing join and measure along the wing, edge. The ball end should be at 665mm plus or minus 5mm. We suggest you set at the mid point

The slots allow fine tuning should you find that the bonnet is not, being lifted " squarely" on opening. The 3rd hole at the front of the plates are only to be drilled and fixed after finishing installation and any fine adjustments. Once ok drill and place m6 bolts / washers and nuts supplied

This will stop any adjustments within the slots)

The header tank can be pushed / moved, outwards to allow fitment of the drivers, wing plate.


(kit since upgraded with black nylon spacer rather than the metal one in the photo.)

The header tank uses the 2 x spacers washers, and 2 x m6 x 35mm long bolts to refit.



Sometimes the additional header tank tie down bracket needs loosening and, reseating, often it seems its fine! Check the wing bracket is clear of the header, tank and cannot chaff through.

Drivers Side - Bonnet Mount

As above, with the tape measure - place the end of the tape measure on the rear folded edge of the bonnet.

Measure up, towards the front of the bonnet and place a reference mark at, 14.5 inches on the bonnets underneath return face.

This mark is for the centre hole, of the bonnet mounting plate to locate, on to the bonnet return. On td5s this may even line up with the existing rivets.

Place the bonnet mounting plate so the centre hole is on the mark, then drill a, 5mm - 5.5mm hole through the plate /, through the wing.

Try to have the hole slightly to the inner edge of the return.

For example, slightly off centre off towards the engine. This places the bracket slightly inboard of the bonnet edge when closed. But also give the additional clearance for the rams when closing.


Once drilled add 1 x M5 countersunk bolt and a washer + nyloc on the reverse. Tighten enough to hold into place, but loose enough to allow lining up before drilling the 2 x additional holes. Once done fit the other 2 x countersunk screws washers and nuts and fully tighten again.

This completes the drivers side, but don’t put the ram on. The scissor prop (as shown here) will require lifting up to allow it to close. The bonnet rams will be fully extended.

You now need to do the passenger side, which is very similar to the process just followed.

Measure from the rear of the wing / bulkhead as before, remove the bolts as in the photo, you will find this gives better access to sometimes remove the washer bottle itself from its mounting.


Take care to double check the positions of the ball ends on each side. If they vary, then the bonnet may lift up off square. Similarly, if the bonnet mounts are not the same, then you can adjust the wing mounts to give +/- adjustment to help the bonnet lift and sit square when up.

Mount the past part which is the passenger bonnet mounting as previously shown.

Now you can remove the bonnet stay, holding the bonnet clip the gas rams into place. They were fitted the ram body nearest the wing, they can be mounted the other way if you prefer. The gas rams can be easily and quickly disconnected by placing a small screwdriver in the slot holt where the clip, upon reattaching the spring may clip back into place. Or you may need the screwdriver assisting from the other side.

Once you’re happy with the operation of the lifting, drill through and add the final 3rd bolts to the wing mounting plates. This stops any adjustments within the slots.

You can also further fine tune the height of the lift by using the additional 2 x holes in the bonnet plates. Its is also good to good the bonnet and assist in raising not just let it fly up on its own.

In the same way when closing the bonnet, it is best to hold both sides of the bonnet when pulling down rather than just one corner.