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UK Mainland shipping for this item is just £9.95 VAT! We also ship worldwide.
Tired of doing rebuilds and finding you can spend weeks (and money on new individual panels) trying to patch up an old dented & corroded body tub? We now have the answer!
Complete Rear Body Tub For Defender 90 1998-2016 (No bulkhead - Square Inner Arches).
Basically TD5 & Tdci models and also 50th Anniversary V8 models. Will also fit other years Defender 90 if you have decided to fit the rear plastic fuel tank.
This is a heavy duty version compared with the original, manufactured from 2mm aluminium rather than the original 1.2 & 1.5mm. This means it is a lot more rigid overall, but most importantly, especially for the outer skins, they are a lot mor dent resistant and less flex in the panels. Basically how Land Rover should have made them in the first place!
These also come with new galvanised under tub floor support crossmembers pre fitted
Made from the modern day equivalent of Birmabright, out of 5083 grade aluminium,
this offers much more corrosion and dent resistance than some of the softer alloys used on some replacement panels available.
Please note these are brand new tubs and not second hand ones that have been fitted and built up before so you will need to:
- Drill the pop rivet holes for the tub cappings
- You will need to double check the position of the under floor support crossmembers to your ones as they can vary. They are just pop rivetted into place so are easy enough to remove and place where you need. Please note brand new tubs from Land Rover do not even come with these
- You may need to drill new holes for various fixings, brackets, seats, rear door hinges etc that may be fitted to your model. A lot of these holes where drilled by Land Rover down the production line so you will need to do the same
- You may need to elongate some holes to fit parts or drill complete new holes
- You may need to use packers/shims under the tub where it meats things such as the front chassis outrigger & rear crossmember etc, just like Land Rover did. The most common shim Land Rover used was part number 305232
- You will need to apply seam sealer to joints between different panels
- You may need to do general fettling, cutting, filing to fit parts
When fitting the main things we do before painting is:
1- Offer up the tub onto the chassis you are fitting it to to ensure it is clearing everything underneath and to highlight if any packers are needed or any holes needing to be drilled or elongated to bolt into place
2- Ensure the under floor crossmembers are in the same place as the tub we are replacing and if not un rivet them and move them
3- Offer the tub cappings and rear light cappings into place and then drill the rivet holes. On later models the light holes in the tub, that sit under the light capping, need to be enlarged. So just sit the light cappings into place, see if the light holes in the capping line up with the light holes in the tub and if necessary enlarge the holes. This can be normally done quite quickly by using the edge of a step drill in a power drill. Also it sits under the light capping when done so isn't seen when all fitted into place. Before pop rivetting the tub cappings into place, we will spray some epoxy primer under where they fit so the aluminium isn't bare, as it just means they will last longer without corroding. Epoxy primer is great as it adheres to aluminium and isn't porous like other primers and you can buy them in aerosol cans quite easily.. You could add more coats of paint for extra protection.
4- Any brackets such as ones for seats, support brackets etc, we will try to drill before painting just for a better overall job. So basically try to drill as many holes for as many brackets as possible up before painting. Obviously holes can be drilled after painting but if it can be done before hand just makes for a nicer job. The plastic wheel arches need to be offered up and the 8mm holes drilled for the plastic rivets. You just use your plastic wheel arches as a template
5- Things like hinge holes can only really be drilled once the rear door is offered into place as each Land Rover varies massively. Land Rover only drilled the hinges holes in the tub and roof sides once the vehicles where actually painted by sitting the rear door into places on the vehicle, with the hinges fitted, and wherever the hinges lay on the tub and roof sides, they would then drill using a power drill. We will normally do the same after painting, but unlike Land Rover we recommend putting a bit of paint around the holes you have drilled to stop corrosion. Even better again after applying a bit of paint to the drilled holes, use grease around them too.
6- Before applying seam sealer, we will spray epoxy primer where the seam sealer will go, as again, we find it is better for corrosion resistance to have paint under the seam sealer rather than bare aluminium
These are all pretty normal things when fitting any new replacement part or panel, especially to a Land Rover. This is the same with fitting any Brand new tub, if you need any advice on fitting tips we are more than happy to help
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