In the kit you will receive the parts as above.

STEP 1
First job to do is to remove the spare wheel that is currently fitted to your vehicle.

STEP 2

Next job is to remove the inner door card on the rear door, the photo above shows the door card on 2002-2016 Defender models.
On 2002-2016 you will need to undo the 4 torx bolts holding the internal grab handle on and also remove the plastic trim from behind the lift up handle.
The rest of the door card is just clipped in place so the door card can then be carefully prised away from the door.

On 1983-2002 door card the process is very similar, but involves removing self taping screws from around the edge of the door card.

STEP 3

Next job is to remove the bolts holding the current wheel carrier onto the door.
On 2002-2016 originally there was just 4 bolts holding this on but sometimes may be 6.

On 1983-2002 doors the wheel carrier will be held on with about 10-14 bolts




STEP 4

You can now bolt on the main backing plate (part B) reusing the existing bolts.
This plate has both the holes to suit 2002-2016 doors and also to suit 1983-2002 doors.

On 1983-2002 doors you may need to redrill or elongate some of the holes as the holes in
the earlier doors where always drilled by hand in the factory unlike the later 2002-2016 doors


STEP 5

You will now need to drill the 2 holes in the tub capping to mount the upper hinge (Part C)

The holes will need to be 12mm in diameter. The LH hole is in line with the pop rivet above.

The top hinge (part C) can now be loosely bolted in place using the M10 bolts and captive plate (Part G).
The captive plate fits from the inside so you may need to remove the internal speaker cover or trim panel if fitted.

The Lower hinge (Part D) can now be fitted to the chassis crossmember using the captive plate and M10 Bolts (Part F).
The holes are already in the chassis but 2 of them will need making slightly larger by using a 10mm drill bit.

A spacer sits behind the lower hinge so the hinge doesn’t touch the body.

At this stage please keep the hinges slightly loose.

STEP 7

The main assembly (Part A) can now be bolted to the hinges using the 2 M12 Bolts and nyloc Nuts (parts E).
The slack in the hinges to body will help you fit Part A to the hinges.

With the Main assembly now bolted to the hinges, you can now tighten up the bolts attaching the hinges to body.
A friend may come in handy at this point as while lifting one end of the wheel carrier up to keep it looking level,
you can tighten the 5x M10 bolts to the body and chassis.

STEP 8

You then just need to connect the main assembly (part A) to the large sliding Bolt on Part B.

Please note the Large Bolt on part B is meant to be a snug fit so will feel a bit stiff when sliding it through by hand.

The bolt attaches through the slotted hole as above. It is held into place using the 3x M12 Half Nuts (Part I) .
Before poking the large bolt through the slotted hole, screw on one of the M12 Half nuts onto the large bolt to about 25mm from the start of the thread.

Then poke through the end of the bolt through the slotted hole. You can then screw on one of the other M12 half nuts and tighten both.
This will securely attach Part A to the large threaded bolt on Part B. To stop the 2 nuts coming undone in use, fit the third M12 Half nut and tighten.

STEP 9

Once you have refitted your door card, your swing away wheel carrier is now fitted.

You will also find in the fitting pack, plastic caps to fit over the bolt heads on the hinges, both M12 and M10.
These simply push on top of the hex heads for a high quality finish.

If you are fitting a steel wheel you can bolt it straight onto the wheel carrier.

If you are fitting an alloy wheel or offset wheels, please use the large thick washers and M16 half nuts on the 3 main studs
and you can adjust exactly how far in our out your wheel fits onto the wheel carrier.